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[台灣百岳] 到山中避暑看浮雲。談嘉明湖的天氣 CLOUDS IN MOUNTAINS


台灣嘉明湖登山路線上,也許浮雲中的山色比湖光更動人。每一秒都在變動的風景,如此美景只在高山之上,多看也不乏味。

The beauty of clouds in mountains seems to be more attracting then the lake itself along the trail route to JiaMing Lake (嘉明湖), Taiwan. The second highest lake in Taiwan, famous with its name of "Tears of Angel" (天使的眼淚). The ever changing clouds dressed up the mountain. Never feel bored to look at these beautiful scenery.

高山天氣變幻莫測


登山的體驗視乎選擇的路線,而天氣是除了自己的身體狀況以外,其中最重要的一欄,也影響着登山路線的難度,好的準備是成功的一大步。我們登山是要享受山野,不是特意要找個人挑戰,遊走在藍天白雲之中,總好比瑟縮在大雨打雷中。至於高海拔登山,查找資料通常都有提及適合登山的季節,就是避開雨季、雪季。這個道理對於所有戶外活動也合適吧。而高海拔的天氣變化比低海拔變得還要快,懂得看天氣變得更重要。此外就是登山季節的溫度,定奪了我們對裝備的準備


The ever changing weather in high altitude


One of the most important factor of affecting our trekking experience would be weather. It determine the difficulties level even for the same route. It's the first step to choose the right season for hiking, avoiding rain and snow season. Guess we all want to enjoy our time staying in nature but not fighting with wind and storm out there, especially in wild. Of course, the weather condition also a big factor to consider which gear to bring with.

出行準備


5月的台灣本來是梅雨的季節,這次的嘉明湖登山行程安排在5月尾實在有點不合時宜,只因不知是幸運與否,今年遇着旱季,梅雨的季節還未來臨 (這段日子香港也連續高溫煎熬了兩個多星期...),造就了大好的登山天氣。知道山屋床位中籤後一直最擔心的就是天氣,台灣人都很喜歡登山,所以天氣網站都有提供山上的天氣預報,而嘉明湖步道之上的天氣偵測站是在向陽山。


中華民國交通部中央氣象局提供了最多一週的天氣預報,除了提供溫度之類數據,還會有體感溫度、降雨率、紫外線指數等等,也分開了白天和晚上的預測,這樣詳細資料對登山安排很有幫助。


向陽山的氣象資料可按此


查找嘉明湖資料同時,看到這步道的山難也不少....細看之下,高山的天氣有着重要的關係。

"嘉明湖雖然美麗,很親近的一條登山路線,但因它海拔高,氣候變化萬千,經常濃霧籠罩,在內政部的登山難度上,比台灣最高峰玉山還難。" -曾經以46天完成中央山脈縱走的台南地檢署書記官蘇家楹表示

摘自風傳媒新聞

可見天氣好與壞在高海拔登山有着重要的角色。

另一個看台灣山岳資料的好地方-健行筆記

  • 夏季:白天溫度約在12-16度,晚上約9-13度;早晨至中午天氣大多晴朗,因高山空氣清靜懸浮微粒少故紫外線特強須注意防曬、午後如平地水氣旺盛則常有大霧或午後陣雨,傍晚至早晨又恢復穩定。

  • 4-5月為梅雨季節常有豪大雨,6-9月底為颱風季,颱風如直接侵襲台灣向陽山區常有強降雨,道路經常坍方。10月初至翌年4月底為登山旺季,氣候相對穩定。

  • 冬季:白天溫度約在0-4度,晚上約-3-1度;整天常有大霧、霧雨,絕對要足夠的保暖衣物。以去年為例,十月底由向陽山登山口以上即有降雪,至農曆年間最為寒冷,降雪至黑水塘以上積雪約30公分。(以上氣象資訊由向陽派出所所長提供)

是次避開了梅雨季,但午後的大霧與陣雨始終躲不過,卻帶來了一番不同的景色,山中總是充滿着未知的驚喜。

Get prepared!

Month of May is the rain season in Taiwan. We did not pick the best season for the hike at first. However, we were just in a luck that the rain season postponed so that we can enjoy the hike in good weather.


Throughout our research and planning of hike, we found that the Jia Ming Lake trekking route not only famous for it's beauty, but also had quite a few of mountain accident, and mainly related to weather.


"Although Jia Ming Lake is beautiful, a hiker friendly route, but due to its high altitude which weather changes a lot, being covered in mist for most of the time, making the route even harder than the trekking route of Yu-shan(玉山), the highest peak in Taiwan." said the Tainan Prosecutors Officer, who finished the Trekking of Central Mountain Range in 46 days.


It can see that the weather in Jia Ming Lake is quite critical.

Taiwanese are hike lovers which detailed forecast information can be retrieved from the Central Weather Bureau, such as the apparent temperature, probability of precipitation, UVI, etc. The nearest weather station for Jia Ming Lake is on Xiang Yang Mountain,(向陽山) also one of our checkpoint along the trekking route. Click here for the latest forecast for Xiang Yang Mountain.


Another super informative website is Hiking Biji 健行筆記 (Chinese only)

Summary of the weather info on Hiking Biji

Summer: Morning temperature 12-16 degree ; night 9-13 degree; mostly sunny in morning to noon

Winter: Morning temperature 0-4 degree; night temp -3-1 degree; foggy most of the time

Rain season comes in Apr to May. June to end of Sept is the typhoon season. The best hiking season is from Oct to next year Apr.


We luckily escaped from rain season but not the rain shower in the afternoon. But the good side of the ever changing weather on high mountain dressed the mountains with different scene. So stunning in my eyes.


走在嘉明湖步道


這次的登山資深嚮導阿聖大哥是台中人,對山上的事都很有認識,搞氣氛也很有一手(笑)。阿聖帶我們上山之前已經連續上山帶團十多天沒回家,嚮導的工作真的好不容易。與阿聖匯合之後,就立即問一下山上的天氣。依他的說法是早上天氣晴朗,下午會下雨,與登山資料所說的也吻合。


登山第2天的行程是由凌晨2點多開始,7點左右到達嘉明湖避難山屋,預計早上10點前到達嘉明湖,就是要捉緊好天氣!在山屋換輕裝到嘉明湖的時候,阿聖再度提醒要帶雨具,回程的時候鐵定會下雨,當時還是陽光猛烈呢。


On the Jia Ming Lake Trail Route

Our Taiwanese mountain guide, Seng, in profession of most of the knowledge on mountain. He had been guiding other groups of hiking for past 10 days. According to his observation, the weather would be sunny in the morning and rain in the afternoon which match with our research data.


The second day of trail started from 2am, we arrived the Jia Ming Lake Mountain Hut at around 7am and expected to arrive Jia Ming Lake before 10am, in order to catch the best weather. Seng once again reminded us to bring waterproof gear when we were changing for light gear for the last section of our round- way hike to the lake. Although the strong sun was still shining outside at the moment, rain must came in the afternoon as Seng expected.


風雲變色


山屋以後的路段都是走在稜線上,沿途已看到遠處的雲層漸厚,薄雲時在山頂擦過,時在山林間浮動,陽光有時又穿過雲層映照着某山頭的一片,景色時刻在變動。還記得夥伴說既然待會走回頭路才慢慢拍照吧,想抓緊時間快點到嘉明湖,我卻説風景不等人,要拍現在好拍了。回程的時候果然已收起了猛烈的陽光,走進了雲層之中,又是另一番景象。


The rain is coming

On our way to Jia Ming Lake, the cloud far from us started to be thicken, sometimes just slightly in touch with the mountain top, floating along the mountain range, sometimes light shinning through the clouds, spot lighted part of the forest. Never feel bored with the views.


中午前後驟然風雲變色,剛才在嘉明湖看到的藍天短暫而不再。阿聖也許預測到快要到來的暴雨,我們提前起行回程。回程路段登上了在嘉明湖背後高一點的的三叉山(3496米),山頂突然廣闊的山景,加上周遭的浮雲,整個山間轉換了氣氛,變得嚴肅起來。這些被浮雲點綴的山脈,令人聯想起天堂的景色。

As expected by Seng, the weather turned bad around noon, on our way back, we no longer could see the blue sky in Jia Ming Lake. Seng decided to make our way back earlier to avoid upcoming storm. On our way round, we chosen to climb up Sancha Mountain, which is at the back of Jia Ming Lake slightly higher at 3496m. When we arrived the peak, the sudden change of view amazed us. The atmosphere became dignified with the clouds among mountains, may have a feel of being in heaven.

經過三叉山下坡的路段後,我們逐漸走入迷霧裏,不時有驟雨及打雷,阿聖提醒我們要把電話關掉以免被雷擊中,此時也加緊腳步回山屋。幸好有阿聖的專業推斷之下,我們成功躲開了下午的暴風雨,看著其他遲回來的登山者都被雨淋得好不狼狽。


After we descend from Sancha Mountain, we literally walked into mist. There was seldom rain shower and thunder. Seng reminded us to turn off our mobile to avoid the thunder. We started to speed up and back to the mountain hut, right before the storm came. Thanks for Seng's professional judgement, we successfully escaped from the storm. The late comers were fully wet....



回到位於海拔3380m的嘉明湖避難山屋,在迷霧裏吃着晚餐,看着大自然在山間上演的一幕幕。


Later, we had our dinner in mist, watching the best movie played by nature.

高海拔與溫度的關係

夏季:海拔上升100m 溫度下降0.6度

冬季:海拔上升100m 溫度下降0.36度

這是根據溫度直減率 (Lapse rate of temperature)或環境直減率(Environmental lapse rate, ELR)所簡化出來的參考定律。

有了這定律加上天氣預測的溫度,就可以大概知道登山時候的衣著以及所需裝備了。

The relationship between altitude and temperature

Summer: Increase 100m in altitude, 0.6 degree Celsius drop in temperature

Winter: Increase 100m in altitude, 0.36 degree Celsius drop in temperature

The data is predicted from theory of Lapse rate of temperature/Environmental lapse rate (ELR) for reference.

With the help of forecast and temperature prediction as reference, it is more easy for us to pick the right clothing and gear for trekking.

 

嘉明湖登山路線圖

Map for Jia Ming Lake Trekking Route

文中所提及嘉明湖山屋至嘉明湖路段為綠色,行程需即日來回

橙色路線為登上三叉山路段,非必經路線

As mentioned in the passage, the second day route of hiking from Jia Ming Lake Mountain Hut to Jia Ming Lake is shown in green.

Orange route shown the way to Sancha Mountain

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